Deadspace: Should be zero since your mash tun is also your kettle.Įfficiency: I'd probably start with 75% and adjust from there after you "dial in" your sytem.įermenter: Pretty straightforward, I like to get 5.5 gallons into my fermenter and I estimate I lose about. This is probably less critical on your system since you have temperature control and a heat source.Ĥ. Mash Tun Specific Heat – The specific heat of your mash tun – generally this is a number between 0.10 and 0.50 with lower numbers associated with all metal mash tuns such as stainless steel and higher numbers representing plastic thermal coolers. This is used to compensate mash temperatures for the thermal mass of your tun.ģ. Mash tun weight and specific heat: Estimate/calculate the weight of the kettle with the mash pipe. You should be able to calculate this with water by adding the malt pipe and calculating the increase in water volume from the measuring rod.That will give you your workable mash tun volume.Ģ. Mash Tun Volume: On your system, I would list the tun volume as the volume of the kettle (I think it's 55L) minus the volume displaced by the malt pipe and tie down rod, etc. That should be it for the boiler, leave the defaults for the other values.ġ. Something like 0.5-1 gallons per hour is probably a good starting point.ģ. You may not know your boil off rate yet, but you can estimate it by boiling water for an hour and subtracting the pre-boil vol from the post boil vol. This calculates the boil volume off based off your batch size and boil off rate.
#Beersmith equipment profile full
Top Up Water: Zero since you are doing full batch boils.Ģ. The equipment profile is fairly straightforward to setup.
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